Sunday, June 3, 2012

Day 14: Up the winding stair

We woke up with the sun, with knots in our backs, and with some suspicious stares from the older couple that was packing their car in the spot next to ours. Cool air greeted us as we stepped out of the car to stretch our legs and begin our first real day in Yosemite.

First on our agenda was to set up our living arrangements for the night, so we took a trip down to Yosemite Valley to check out the visitor center. Our ride through Yosemite was considerably improved with a splash of sunlight. Once we emerged from the trees and reached the edge of the canyon wall, the views were incredible. Massive walls of glacier-carved granite erupt at nearly a right angle from the ground forming a meandering valley thousands of feet below. On our way to the valley we passed Inspiration Point, where the size and beauty of the park became immediately apparent.

Eventually we made our way to the valley floor where we got a glimpse of Yosemite Falls, only one of many falls in the park. Not long later we made it to Yosemite Village where we were directed to a campsite that had some vacancies. A seemingly short distance on the map turned out to be a nearly 30 minute drive to Tamarack Flats where we made our camp. The drive was just as scenic, but offered views of the meadows on the other side of the mountains before diving back into the forest and to our campsite. It was a great feeling to set up camp after having slept in the car the night before. Carving out a space to call home, even if just for one night, brought quite a bit of relief, and left us free to enjoy the park.

Once we pitched our tent and secured our food against bears, we trekked back to Yosemite Valley to talk to some rangers and plan the day's activities. Originally I had hoped to hike to the top of Half-Dome, a huge granite formation that towers over 8400 feet above the valley floor, but unfortunately we got a little too late of a start for me to attempt the twelve hour hike before sunset. Instead we opted to take a quick bike ride over to the Lower Yosemite Falls, which were absolutely packed with people-- probably due to its easy access from the main roads. It was an impressive sight, but slightly spoiled by the crowds, so we took another bike ride a couple miles down the road to the trailhead that would lead us to the top of Vernal Fall.

The hike was very relaxing, and even though there were still quite a few people, it was nothing compared to the hectic crowd surrounding Lower Yosemite Falls. Paved paths lead the way up most of the trail on the northern side of the river formed by the waterfall until we crossed the river and were faced with packed dirt and stone. From the bridge across the river we caught a glimpse of our end goal: a towering waterfall several hundred feet above. The final leg of the hike was the most impressive and strenuous, as it was essentially a stairway carved into the rock. To make things more exciting, it was merely feet from a sheer drop into the raging river below, and carved so steeply it may have been more akin to a ladder than a stair.

As the stair wound its way along the riverside we grew nearer and nearer to Vernal Fall. Before the stair dipped into the rock face and away from the river for a bit we were taken right next to the top of the falls where a fine mist formed spectacular rainbows and made the undulating staircase slightly more treacherous. When we reached the top we were rewarded with an incredibly clear view of the cliffs behind us, and the deafening waterfall pouring countless gallons of water into the valley below.

Once we were rested we made our way back down the almost comically steep stairs, and biked back to Yosemite Village and where we were parked. On our drive back to the campsite we took a stop along the side of the road to watch the sunset from the edge of the canyon. The setting sun tinted the cool grey granite a warm orange and plunged the trees in the valley into a dark green shadow.

By the time we made it to the campsite, it was almost completely dark. Since we were exhausted from the hike, we just stayed up long enough to build a fire and roast some hot dogs before turning in for the night.

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