Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Days 26 and 27: Bison backup


Since our drive was supposed to take all day, we got an early start so we would get to Yellowstone before it got too late. Yellowstone is the first place on our trip that I've actually been to before, and since I had such a great time on the first trip I was extremely excited to be headed back.

Our drive to the park was pretty uneventful, but the changes in landscape where very drastic. We started in the fog-covered mountains of Washington, driving along winding roads hanging off the ragged edges of evergreen-spotted cliffs. However, less than an hour later we began our descent on the eastern slope, and soon found ourselves in hilly desert not unlike in southern California east of the Rockies. The landscape transformation was accompanied by an equally marked change in temperature as it became blisteringly hot in the car for the next few hours.

Eventually we made it through the hilly desert plains and entered Idaho where the mountain roads began again and continued through Montana. Montana had some particularly striking countryside because along the road it was almost uninhabited. We passed some lonely houses occasionally, but for the most part we were surrounded by beautiful, unbroken hills and mountains with an expansive blue sky sparsely interrupted by streaky white clouds. Even though we were tired after about twelve hours of driving, it was still an enjoyable trip.

We finally reached Yellowstone in the dark, but unlike Yosemite we had a plan, and we soon found a place to set up camp and spend the night. The camp was built and we were asleep within an hour, which definitely beat driving around the park for hours only to sleep in the car.

I woke up in the morning bitterly cold and with a full bladder. It was all I could to to slide out of my slightly warm sleeping bag into the nearly freezing temperatures to relieve myself. I tried to get back to sleep after, but the damage was done, so I put on my frozen shoes and walked around a bit to try to shake the chill. I noticed a trail that I hadn't seen the night before and followed it to a fog-blanketed stream where I watched the sun rise through a thick shroud of mist until Geries woke up.

We got some breakfast in the town of West Yellowstone and headed back to our tent to break camp and go into the park. To make sure there was still a space when we were ready to get some sleep, we made our way to Mammoth Springs where we hoped to camp for our next two nights in the park. We drove through the winding roads of the park with columns of steam issuing from pools and vents at dozens of points along the road, giving the park the look of a recently abandoned battlefield with smoking craters. The illusion was completed in Mammoth hot springs which could have passed for a post apocalyptic wasteland with barren, acid-eaten rock supporting some stunted and dying tries. Travertine terraces bled rancid sulphur water and crystal clear pools rimmed in orange-stained rock sputtered and hissed steam as a constant reminder that this is a land in turmoil. After we finished our hike around the springs and had some lunch, we finished up our campsite and made our way up to the North entrance.

Our slight detour north brought us to the North entrance of the park where the Roosevelt Arch stands. I have a great picture in front of the arch from my previous trip to Yellowstone, so I wanted to grab another for comparison. Being there reminded me of the great time I had in the park on my previous visit and got me even more excited to revisit some of my favorite places and explore some new ones. After having a bit of trouble getting a picture at the busy arch, we finally made our way to Grand Prismatic Spring.

When we got there we first walked around the boardwalks rimming the spring and smaller pools that flank it. A constant blanket of steam came from the surface in rolling waves, partially obscuring the kaleidoscope of brilliant colors that lend the spring its name. Unsatisfied with the ground level view we moved a short way up the road to the Fairy Falls trail which crosses in front of th ehills that overlook the spring. Before long we found a well worn offshoot trail that led up the steep, dusty hillside littered with deadfall from a fire years ago. Scrambling up the hillside was difficult, but well worth the effort as we were rewarded with a great view of the entire Grand Prismatic Spring. It had even warmed up a bit, so the steam cloud relented and we could more clearly see the magnificent pool. After a slightly more treacherous climb down, we made our way back to the car to drive to Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin.

We waited with a crowd of a couple hundred people as Old Faithful was scheduled to erupt. The geyser teased the crowd with occasional belches of steam and water before finally exploding with full force, launching a column of superheated water almost a hundred feet high. The earth rumbled and groaned as the water issued forth for about a minute before finally settling down, causing the audience to disperse with equal abruptness. After Old Faithful, Geries and I took a walk along the boardwalk through the geyser basin. Tendrils of steam dyed orange by the setting sun rolled off the edge of the plateau and into the air above the swiftly flowing river below. We caught another eruption from the Lion Geyser Group from a distance, but otherwise just enjoyed the walk through the beautiful crystal-clear pools and steam-spouting geyser mouths.

After the short hike, we were starting to get pretty hungry, so we headed back to the campsite to get some dinner before the sun went down. Unfortunately the park's bison had other plans. Not a mile out from Old Faithful the road was blocked by a herd of bison trying to cross. We waited for about thirty minutes before the lumbering beasts decided which side of the road they wanted to be on and finally started moving again, thinking we were in the clear. We made it a short way down the road before we were stopped yet again by a line of cars that we couldn't see the end of. Afraid to open the windows for the mosquitoes swarming outside, we say int the car, slowly building up heat as we waited nearly an hour and a half with only an occasional ranger car speeding by in the opposite lane as an indication that we might ever move. Finally when we were on the brink of giving up and turning around to take the ninety mile alternate route we rolled up to the bison congested area. Dozens of bison littered the road and shoulder, standing there with nary a flinch as we wove through to the clearing on the other side of the wall of unmoving buffalo flesh. Just as we thought we were free, a bison turned into our lane, narrowly missing the car. By then the sun had nearly set and was completely down when we reached the campsite, so we ate a quick dinner and went to sleep almost immediately after.

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