Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Day 28: Smarter than the average bear


I woke up in the morning to a scene quite different from the previous night with light streaming into the tent heating the small space until it was almost unbearable. Once Geries was up I began getting ready for my trip through the park. Geries decided that he just wanted to rest for the day, so I would be exploring on my own. I set out shortly after and made a quick trip to the Mammoth Springs Inn where I spent the best $3.38 of my life on a shower after not having had one for a few days while we were camping.

Feeling rejuvenated, I began to drive to Norris Geyser Basin, home of Steamboat, the largest geyser in the world. Unfortunately while I was there there was no major eruption, but the chances were pretty slim since the last one was seven years ago. As if in a meek attempt to appease the hopeful crowds, Steamboat let off some smaller eruptions hurling steaming water about ten feet into the air every five minutes or so. It managed to keep me entertained while I was there for about an hour catching up on blog posts. Once I was finished and it was clear that I wasn't going to catch a Steamboat eruption, I followed the creaking boardwalk through the rest of Norris Basin. Without too many other park visitors around it was kind of eerie walking through the scarred landscape with its cracked and barren soil hosting only a few crippled trees that sprouted between steaming pools of stinking water. I was thankful for the boardwalk since just feet from the path I spotted several holes punched through the rocky crust that seemed to extend deeper than I could imagine. The path was littered with hot spring and geysers, but one of the most interesting was Porkchop Geyser, which exploded in 1989, flinging rocks and debris at eight park visitors (thankfully missing all of them). A ring of jagged rocks rimming a small blue pool are the only remnants of the explosion.

Once I finished the short hike through Norris, I went to check out some of Yellowstone's other diverse landscapes. I soon found myself at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, a glacier-carved gash that stretches for miles and houses the roaring Yellowstone River. I took a quick stop at the brink of the Upper Falls where the Yellowstone River dumps thousands of gallons of frothing water into the base of the canyon below. The speed and might of the river produced a deafening roar that echoed against the surrounding cliffs.

Next I made my way to the south rim of the canyon to visit Artist Point. I took a short hike along the rim of the canyon to get there. Narrow and broken, the path wound along the rim, occasionally brushing the edge long enough to get a view of the falls behind and induce a sense of dizzying vertigo. I soon reached Artist Point, which is a small outcrop of rock that juts into the canyon, offering a view down its length, revealing the falls in the distance and showcasing the beauty of the rift's sheer walls. While the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is tiny compared to its big brother in Arizona, its multicolored striated walls are just as striking, with vibrant oranges and sunny yellows contrasting nicely with the green trees clinging to its rocky shoulders.

Intending to turn away from the rim and head back to the car along the rest of the loop I was following, I started down a trail past Artist Point. The maps were a little misleading, however, and since I was unsure if I had chosen the right path, I doubled back and followed my original trail back to the car. Once back at the car I headed to Yellowstone Lake, which I don't remember seeing on the previous trip. I chose a hike out to Storm Point along the edge of the massive lake. From my view along the path, the only land visible was Stevenson Island and the towering mountains many miles in the distance. As I walked through a dense forest that skirted the lake shore I was reminded of the trail description that mentioned that the trail was usually closed in early summer due to bear activity. Every creaking pine or gust of wind became the signal of an approaching bear, and I found myself walking faster until I finally broke out of the forest and made a short climb to the tip of Storm Point. By this time the sun was low in the sky, and the panoramic view of the vast lake was completed by the streaks of sunlight reflecting off the wind fueled waves crashing against the shore.

I enjoyed the view for a while, gathering the courage needed to trek back through the supposedly bear-infested woods when a couple of hikers showed up speaking in thick Russian accents. I introduced myself to Alex and Isaac, and after we all got some pictures at the point, I hiked back with them. We had a nice talk, and the walk back seemed much short, and less fraught with anxiety. We soon reached our cars and parted ways, but it was nice to meet the two boisterous Russians.

From the lake I began the long drive back to Mammoth along what I thought was the same path I had taken out there. However, soon I saw snow drifts along the side of the road where I could have sworn there weren't any before. It eventually became clear to me that I made a wrong turn, but thankfully the road I chose also led back to the campsite, so what could have been a long delay turned into an opportunity to see some more of the park. Along the drive through the Tower area I couldn't help but stop at almost all of the pullouts I saw so I could get pictures of the sunbathed meadows and towering peaks that I passed. Wildlife encounters slowed my progress a bit, but it was nothing compared to the previous day.

When I finally arrived back at the campsite, Geries was there with three newcomers, Leslie, Martha, and Michael, who he had met that day on his travels in the campground. It was cool to have some people to hang out with as we had our dinner, and we ended up talking well into the night as Geries showed Michael how to do star photography. We eventually said goodnight to our new friends and got to bed so we could wake up early for the drive to Mount Rushmore in the morning.

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